A Different Kind of Sushi

Different kinds of fish have different ways of cooking and some fish are fully appreciated if presented in its best way like this red mullet from the Mediterranean. This kind of fish has an earthy flavor and dense flesh that is remarkably delicious. If you are able to access it as fresh from the seas as possible, the best way to truly appreciate its natural flavors is to eat it sushi-style like how the Japanese do. The term “sushi” actually refers to seasoned cooked rice although most people associate sushi with raw fish. Sushi can be served with all kinds of toppings and fillings and the most common of which is fish and seafood.

Chef Michel Trama of the French restaurant L’Aubergade, used red mullet fillets in his sushi style recipe. He lightly seared the red mullet fillets in oil to get a slightly crispy outer skin with a bit of raw pink flesh on the inside. He dressed it with a sweet pepper and ginger sauce and served it with a sushi ball topped with dried tomato and olive paste. He likewise used a complex array of sauces including parsley oil and olive oil emulsion. His dish is definitely far from authentic Japanese sushi. It is more of a fusion of European cooking techniques and Asian flavors, a harmony of East and West.

Instead of the usual soy sauce and wasabi, two necessary seasoning and sauce for enjoying sushi in Japan and elsewhere of the sushi-loving world, Chef Trama experimented on a mélange of spices, classic European purees, and innovative seasonings to create a unique dish inspired by Japanese cuisine using fresh local ingredients. You can always check out video recipes online at Gourmandia.ca.

In making sushi, the kind of rice to be used must be properly selected. If the rice used is right, then you can create decent sushi rice, which serves as the base flavor. The cooked rice has to be slightly sweet and tangy. It is then flavored with sugar and vinegar and just the right amount of salt. Nigiri and Maki are the two main types of sushi. Nigiri consists of vinegared rice formed into balls or oval-shapes and topped with raw or cooked ingredients, this is what is done in this recipe. Maki includes seasoned rice combined with other ingredients and wrapped in seaweed called nori and sliced into round pieces. Serve this special dish with a glass of Côtes de Duras Vieilles Vignes.

Ingredients

4 red mullets (a minimum 0.44 lbs. each)
salt, pepper
olive oil
chives
For the sushi:
7.04 oz. round rice
7.04 oz. water
1 oz. (1/8 cup) rice vinegar
5 ¼ teaspoons sugar
2 teaspoons salt
0.7 oz. preserved tomatoes (chopped)
0.7 oz black olives (chopped)
For the pure sauce:
1.4 oz. (about 8 ½ teaspoons) shallots
0.53 oz. (about 3 teaspoons) garlic
1 oz. (about 2 tablespoons) red pepper
1 oz. (about 2 tablespoons) yellow pepper
0.53 oz. (about 1 tablespoon) fresh ginger
For the black olive emulsion:
1.4 oz. pitted black olives
0.07 oz. (about 2/5 teaspoon) garlic
0.18 oz. (about 1 teaspoon) olive oil
0.07 oz. (about 2/5 teaspoon) curry
¼ cup warm water
¼ teaspoon salt
0.12 oz. anchovy
For the parsley oil:
0.7 oz. (about 4 teaspoons) parsley
1 teaspoon white garlic
1 teaspoon pine nuts
3 2/5 tablespoons olive oil

1. Prepare the sushi rice. Select a good variety of rice to use. Cook rice and place in a mixing bowl. Stir with a fork to cool it down. Dissolve by heating some vinegar and sugar in a small saucepan. Season the rice with the sweetened vinegar. Mix the rice well and set aside and allow to cool. In the meantime make the olive paste. Chop the ingredients finely with a knife and mix together. Place a bit of dried tomato and the olive paste in a plastic film. Scoop some rice with a spoon and place on top of the paste. Shape the rice and paste into a ball by enclosing the plastic film.

2. Make the sauce for the fish. First mince the shallot and blanched garlic then sauté in olive oil. Minced yellow and red peppers and chop the ginger. Mix them all together then cook until soft and mushy. Season with salt and Tabasco sauce.

3. Make emulsion of black olives by mixing in the blender minced pitted black olives and anchovies and adding a dash of curry. Add oil to get a thick emulsion.

4. Make the parsley oil. Puree flat-leaf parsley in the blender with olive oil to make the parsley oil.

5. Slightly cook the mullet filets quickly in a non-stick frying pan with a little olive oil. Do not overcook. Season with salt while cooking.

6. Assemble the dish. On the dish place a dash of parsley oil. Fill Asian soup spoon with the black olive emulsion and place in the center of the plate. Sear the fish fillets then place them on one side and dress with the dried tomatoes and olive paste. On the other side of the plate place the sushi ball and decorate with leaves.